Saturday, July 26, 2008

GREYWATER

I recently heard a presentation at the Environment Nature Center given by the Greywater Guerillas about using greywater to irrigate your garden with. So what is greywater?

note: this information was taken from the Greywater Guirillas website.

Greywater is water that flows down sink, shower, and washing machine drains--but not the toilet. Reusing your graywater keeps it out of the sewer or septic system, thereby reducing the chance that it will pollute local water bodies.

The easiest way to use greywater is to pipe it directly outside and use it to water ornamental plants or fruit trees. This avoids the potential risk of transmitting disease-causing microorganisms. Greywater can be used directly on vegetables as long as it doesn't touch edible parts of the plants. In any direct greywater system, it is essential to put nothing toxic down the drain--no bleach, no dye, no bath salts, no cleanser, no shampoo with unpronounceable ingredients, and no products containing boron, which is toxic to plants. It is crucial to use all natural, biodegradable soaps whose ingredients do not harm plants.

Types of greywater systems...
  • Laundry Drum
  • Drumless Laundry
  • Branched Drain
  • Constructed Wetland

Greywater guidelines (some cities may have requirements which you should be aware of)

  • Don’t store greywater (more than 24 hours).
  • Minimize contact with greywater.
  • Infiltrate greywater into the ground, don’t allow it to pool up or run off (knowing the soil percolation rate of your soil and designing mulch basins will help with this).
  • Keep your system as simple as possible, avoid pumps, avoid filters that need upkeep.
  • Match your plants irrigation needs with the amount of greywater they’ll receive.

If the leaves of your plants which are usually green are turning yellow then you are over waterting but on the flip side if the leaves are turning brown then you are not watering enough. Remember that each plant has different watering needs which you should be aware of prior to irrigating.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

USE FRIENDLY PLANTS / USE PLANTS THAT REQUIRE LOW WATER

What are friendly plants?

California friendly plants are not native to California but will adapt well to the California climate. They thrive well and offer similar benefits as natives.

CLICK HERE for a listing of California friendly plants.

Another thing that you can do is use plants that require low water. These plants don't require as much water as the others. However when picking a plant that requires little to no watering make sure that it is either native to California or California friendly.

Have common sense when you are picking your plants. Look into the following when picking plants...
  • Does the plant require full sun or partial shade?
  • How much water will your plant require?
  • What is the plant suitable for? Screening, hedging, accents etc.
  • What is the average height and spread of the plant? This will affect the plant placement.
  • Is enough quantities of that plant available when you need it? In some cases designers find that a plant that they have specified on the drawings may not be available in most cases due to the fact that it may be a hot selling item. In that case the designer will have to substitute out that plant for another that is similar.

A great way to look at how other designer have done their work is to drive around various neighborhoods, check out the yards of neighbors, take photos and examine what has been done. You could even look at landscape magazines and books. Keep in mind that just because something looks good on paper or in a photo that does not mean that it will work for your property. You may have a different soil type than the garden in the photo or your yard may be more sunny than what you see in the picture.

"It's like the old saying that says think before you speak WELL! Think and do your homework carefully before committing to something."

USE NATIVE PLANTS

Native plants are the naturally occurring, indigenous plants within a specific habitat of a specific bio geographic region. Native plants are also...


  • Adapted to the native soil.
  • Adapted to the native climate.
  • Have a higher chance of survival to many diseases, insects and pests.
Note: there may be more native California plants then what is listed here. Do your research before just picking a plant.
Plants listed by how one can use them...
Note: some lists may contain the same plant. This information is courtesy of TREE OF LIFE NURSERY.
Plants suitable for perennial beds and borders
  • Abutilon palmeri
  • Aquilegia formosa
  • Artemisia pycnocephala
  • Camissonia cheiranthifolia
  • Coreopsis maritima
  • Epilobium californicum
  • Erigeron glaucus
  • Erigonum grande var. rubescens
  • Eriogonus umbellatum
  • Eriophyllum nevinii
  • Galvezia speciosa 'Firecracker'
  • Heuchera maxima & hybrids
  • Iris douglasiana
  • Mimulus sp. & hybrids
  • Mirabilis californica
  • Monardella spp.
  • Penstemon heterophyllus
  • Penstemon spectabilis
  • Salvia leucophylla 'Pt. Sal'
  • Salvia 'Dara's Choice'
  • Thalictrum fendleri var. polycarpum
Plants suitable as groundcovers up to 3' high
  • Arctostaphylos 'Carmel Sur'
  • Arctostaphylos 'Emerald Carpet'
  • Arctostaphylos 'Pacific Mist'
  • Arctostaphylos 'Point Reyes'
  • Artemisia californica 'Canyon Gray'
  • Artemisia californica 'Montara'
  • Baccharis pilularis 'Pigeon Point'
  • Baccharis pilularis 'Twin Peaks'
  • Ceanothus 'Joyce Coulter'
  • Ceanothus maritimus
  • Ceanothus 'Point Reyes'
  • Ceanothus 'Yankee Point'
  • Epilobium californicum
  • Erigeron karvinskianus
  • Eriogonum fasciculatus 'Dana Point'
  • Eriogonum parvifolium
  • Fragaria californica
  • Iva hayesiana
  • Oenothera speciosa 'Rosea'
  • Oenothera stubbei
  • Ribes viburnifolium
  • Salvia mellifera 'Tera Seca'
  • Sisyrinchium spp.
  • Solanum xantii
Accent plants up to 4' high
  • Agave deserti
  • Agave shawii
  • Arctostaphylos 'Sunset'
  • Ceanothus rigidus 'Snowball'
  • Cneoridium dumosum
  • Coreopsis giganteum
  • Dudleya spp.
  • Encelia farinosa
  • Eriogonum fasciculatum
  • Eriogonum giganteum
  • Ferocactus viridescens
  • Galvezia speciosa 'Firecracker'
  • Iris douglasiana
  • Limonum californicum
  • Mimulus species & hybrids
  • Nolina parryi
  • Penstemon spectabilis
  • Penstemon heterophyllus
  • Perityle incana
  • Romneya 'White Cloud'
  • Salvia clevelandii
  • Salvia greggii
  • Trichostema lanatum
  • Yucca schidigera
  • Yucca whipplei
Accent plants up to 5' high
  • Amorpha fruticosa
  • Arctostaphylos 'Howard McMinn'
  • Arctostaphylos 'Sentinel'
  • Calycanthus occidentalis
  • Carpenteria californica
  • Ceanothus 'Concha'
  • Ceanothus 'Julie Phelps'
  • Ceanothus 'Skylark'
  • Cercis occidentalis
  • Cleome isomeris
  • Comarostaphylis diversifolia
  • Dendromecon rigida
  • Fallugia paradoxa
  • Fremontia species & hybrids
  • Heteromeles arbutifolia
  • Mahonia 'Golden Abundance'
  • Pinus contorta
  • Pinus monophylla
  • Rhamnus 'Eve Case'
  • Ribes speciosum
  • Rhus lentii
  • Tecoma Stans
Plants suitable for slopes
  • Aesculus californica
  • Amorpha fruticosa
  • Artemisia californica
  • Artiplex lentii spp. brewerii
  • Baccharis pilularis
  • Ceanothus spp.
  • Cleome isomeris
  • Encelia californica
  • Encelia farinosa
  • Fremontia species & hybrids
  • Garrya elliptica
  • Heteromeles arbutifolia
  • Mahonia nevinii
  • Parkinsonia aculeata
  • Pinus coulteri
  • Pinus sabiniana
  • Prunus ilicifolia spp. ilicifolia
  • Prunus ilicifolia spp. lyonii
  • Quercus dumosa
  • Rhamnus spp.
  • Rhus spp.
  • Ribes malvaceum
  • Romneya coulteri
  • Salvia clevelandii
  • Salvia mellifera 'Terra Seca'
  • Shepherdia argentea
  • Senecio douglasii
  • Solanum xantii
  • Yucca spp.
Plants for background & screening up to 6'+ high
  • Arctostaphylos 'Sentinel'
  • Ceanothus 'Frosty Blue'
  • Ceanothus 'Ray Hartman'
  • Ceanothus 'Sierra Blue'
  • Ceanothus spinosus
  • Ceanothus 'Snow Flurry'
  • Comarostaphylis diversifolia
  • Fremontia species & hybrids
  • Garrya elliptica
  • Heteromeles arbutifolia
  • Lavatera 'Purisima'
  • Mahonia 'Golden Abundance'
  • Myrica californica
  • Prunus ilicifolia
  • Prunus lyonii
  • Quercus dumosa
  • Rhamnus californica
  • Rhus integrifolia
  • Rhus ovata
  • Sambucus mexicana
  • Shepherdia argentea
  • Umbellularia californica
Plants suitable for hedges
  • Arctostaphylos spp.
  • Baccharis pilularis
  • Ceanothus 'Concha'
  • Ceanothus 'Frosty Blue'
  • Ceanothus 'Ray Hartman'
  • Ceanothus 'Skylark'
  • Ceanothus 'Snow Flurry'
  • Cercocarpus spp.
  • Cleome isomeris
  • Cupresssus spp.
  • Mahonia 'Golden Abundance'
  • Mahonia nevinii
  • Myrica californica
  • Prunus ilicifolia spp. ilicifolia
  • Prunus ilicifolia spp. lyonii
  • Rhamnus californica 'Eve Case'
  • Rhamnus crocea
  • Rhamnus crocea spp. insula
  • Rhus integrifolia
  • Rhus ovata
  • Shepherdia argentea
  • Simmondsia chinensis
  • Unbellularia californica
Deciduous Trees
  • Acer macrophyllum
  • Aesculus californica
  • Alnus rhombifolia
  • Betula occidentalis
  • Cercidium floridum
  • Chilopsis linearis
  • Juglans californica
  • Parkinsonia aculeata
  • Platanus racemosa
  • Populus fremontii
  • Quercus douglasii
  • Quercus lobata
  • Sambucus mexicana
  • Tecoma stans
Evergreen Trees
  • Arbutus menziesii
  • Brahea armata
  • Calocedrus decurrens
  • Ceanothus arboreus
  • Lithocarpus densiflorus
  • Lyonothamnus floribundus spp. asplenifolius
  • Pinus coulteri
  • Pinus monophylla
  • Pinus sabiniana
  • Pinus torreyana
  • Prunus ilicifolia spp. lyonii
  • Quercus agrifolia
  • Quercus chrysolepis
  • Quercus engelmanii
  • Sequoia sempervirens & hybrids
  • Umbellularia californica
Vines
  • Antigonon leptopus
  • Calystegia macrostegia 'Anacapa Pink'
  • Carpenteria californica
  • Chilopsis linearis
  • Clematis lasiantha
  • Fremontia spp.
  • Galvezia speciosa
  • Keckiella cordifolia
  • Lavatera 'Purisima
  • Ribes malvaceum
  • Ribes viburnifolium
  • Rosa californica
  • Rubus ursinus
  • Tecoma stans
  • Vitis spp.
I strongly recommend that you look up the plant that you might be interested in and do an in depth research before deciding on what plants to pick.

Monday, July 14, 2008

USE HARDSCAPE MATERIALS WISELY

When you are designing your patios, decks, walkways and driveways think for a minute about the type of hardscape material that you are going to use. Some materials that you can use which can be bought in a variety of colors are...

  • Decomposed Granite
  • Concrete
  • Pavers
  • Crushed Stone
  • Pebbles
  • Cobbles
  • Flagstone
  • Brick
  • Slate
  • Terra Cotta Tile
  • Exposed Aggregate

What ever material you decide to use, go with what works best for the style of your house and your needs. Consider what you will be using the space for. If you are going to use the space for play then using decomposed granite would work best as opposed to stones. Although having a stone pathway might look cute.

SWEEP IT / PICK UP PET WASTE

Why hose down your driveway and hardscape areas and waste water? Sweep It! Bag all your garden clippings and waste. Pick up your animal waste as well. If any of the waste gets into the ocean it can make both people and marine life sick. Remember that every little thing that you can do to help the environment is a good thing not only for the earth but also for your health and the health of your family.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

GROW YOUR OWN FOOD

Do you really need a large area of lawn? Most likely not! So take that area and turn it into a food source.


When you are designing why not...
  • Design with fruit trees.
  • Create an herb/vegetable garden.

You can take the fruits, herbs and vegetable that you grow and...

  • Go grocery shopping in your own back yard.
  • Trade with whatever fruit, herbs and vegetables your neighbors have grown.

Steps to growing your garden...

Planning

  • Determine what crops you can grow in your location based on climate, soil, rainfall and available square footage of space - Understand how much space the crop you plan to grow will need.
  • Understand how the growing season works - You could plant for each season so you will end up with a variety of crop each season.
  • Become familiar with the different types of crops - What are they? How much water do they need? Does this crop require full sun or partial shade?
  • Plan with the neighbors - maybe you and your neighbor could both grow various crops and trade/share with each other.
  • Have a plan - Be clear on what you are going to grow, where you are going to grow it and how.

Growing

  • Break the ground - Prepare the area that you are going to use.
  • Plan for rows of crops - A layering effect.
  • Place your seeds in the furrow - Be sure you understand how far to space each seed based on the type of crop you are planning to grow.
  • Cultivate - Maintain the area on a regular basis.
  • Watch out for insects and rodents - Once you have determined what insects and animals you have if any then you can research into earth friendly methods of ridding them from your garden. You may want to fence the area.
  • Harvest - Educate yourself on when the right time is to pick your crops.
  • Storage - Store your crops based on whatever method is right for each specific crop.

Monday, July 7, 2008

MULCHING

When you read a set of construction documents you will notice the following note on the planting plan...

"Contractor to install a 2" layer of mulch in all shrub areas."

Usually the landscape designer will specify the exact variety of mulch to use.

Why Mulch?
  • Retain soil moisture.
  • Inhibit weed growth.
  • Prevent soil erosion.
  • Use mulch for paving or play areas.

If you are looking to buy earth friendly mulch products you can do so here...


IMPROVE YOUR SOIL

First you must figure out what type of soil you have...
  • Clay - has small particles, small air spaces and retains water better.
  • Silt - is smooth and powdery.
  • Sand - has large particles, large air spaces and thus drains quickly.

The ideal soil type is two part sand and silt to one part clay.

The best way to improve your soil type is to add organic matter (the best place to get them is your compost pile). Organic matter should be added on a yearly basis. The only limitation is how deep you can dig, how much you can afford to buy and how strong you are.

Sunday, July 6, 2008

COMPOSTING

Composting is like cooking. There is the simple recipe that has several variations.

"A good beginners guide is to use roughly half brown and half green materials when building your pile."

There are three types of composting
  • Hot Composting
  • Slow Composting
  • Closed Air Composting
(The information below was taken from http://www.burrtecdesert.com/page63.html)

Hot Composting

The hot compost method depends on heat-loving and heat-generating bacteria. In order for these bacteria to thrive, the pile should be of correct size, have the proper temperature, and have the proper balance of food, water and air. The compost pile is really a teeming microbial farm. Microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi, are naturally present on food and yard trimmings added to the pile. These organisms decompose organic material into rich, earthy-smelling organic material. The hot compost method depends on heat-loving and heat-generating bacteria. In order for these bacteria to thrive, the pile should be of correct size, have the proper temperature, and have the proper balance of food, water and air. If these conditions are met, the microorganisms will raise the temperature of the pile to 140 degrees or more; hot enough to burn your hand! The heat from this rapid decomposition is enough to kill most weeds and disease-causing organisms.

Proper Balance of Food
Just about anything that was once alive can be composted. Carbon and nitrogen from the cells of dead plants and microorganisms fuel the activity of the decomposing organisms. The ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N) is important to a hot compost pile. It helps to think of materials high in nitrogen as "greens," and carbon-rich materials as "browns." A good guide to get the right balance of greens to browns is to use roughly half browns and half greens when building your pile. A pile that is too high in browns will stay cool and sit a long time without breaking down. A pile too high in greens can get slimy and have a foul odor. Other household organic materials such as wool, cotton, dust, hair clippings, and pet fur can also be composted.

Materials Not To Use...

  • Food scraps of any kind
  • Large branches or logs (unless shredded)
  • Plastic or synthetic fibers
  • Manure from carnivorous (meat eating) animals
  • Diseased plants or plants suffering from severe insect attack
  • Weeds with seeds
  • Invasive plants and weeds (ivy, succulents, Bermuda grass, morning glory)
  • Plants that have been treated with herbicidesCharcoal ashes
Building The Compost Pile
  • Locate the compost pile in a shady location out of the wind to decrease water loss through evaporation. Multiple piles are recommended for different stages of composting.
  • Stockpile enough green and brown materials to make a pile that is at least one cubic yard in size. Piles smaller than 3 cubed feet will have trouble holding heat, while piles larger than 5 cubed feet will not allow enough air to reach microorganisms at the center.
  • The more surface area the microorganisms have to work on, the faster the materials will decompose. Cut or bruise yard trimmings with a shovel or machete, or put them through a chipper or shredder. Some materials may be run over with a rotary lawn mower. The harder or more woody the tissues, the smaller they need to be chopped.
    Alternate layers of green and brown materials. Begin with a thick layer of coarse, bulky material, such as sunflower stalks or flowers, to allow air to circulate in the pile. Next, layer greens and browns in the mix together. It is best to keep the layers thin. Continue mixing greens and browns until the pile reaches 3-4 feet high. Once the pile starts to "cook," do not add more materials.
Keep the pile moist
The compost material should be moist to the touch, but only yield a drop or two of liquid when squeezed. Moisten dry materials when adding them to the pile. A layer of straw, plastic or carpet scraps on top of the pile helps keep its outer edges moist.

Turn the pile
Ideally, the compost should cook along at 140 degrees of higher for at least three days. (Long thermometers are available to keep track of compost temperature.) When the pile cools, turn it. If a movable compost bin is being used, remove it from the pile, place it nearby, and move the compost into it with a shovel or pitchfork. If a multiple bin unit is being used, move the compost into the next bin. In several days, the pile will heat up a second time, though probably not as high the initial temperature build-up. After the pile has cooled again, it should be turned a third time. As you turn it, move any un-composted materials to the active center of the pile. Continue this process until the compost no longer heats up significantly. When most of the bulky material has decomposed, the compost is ready. Sift large chunks out of the finished compost for further composting.


Slow Composting

In the slow composting method, yard trimmings are composted in simple holding units or compost heaps. Bacteria and fungi that function at mild temperatures are the actors here. Earthworms, centipedes, beetles, millipedes and other organisms are also involved in the breakdown process.

Materials to Use
Use the same ingredients as the hot compost pile. Be sure to keep the kitchen scraps out as compost heaps can attract rodents.

Building the Compost Heap
Position the compost heap in a convenient spot out of the wind and direct sunlight. It is helpful to have two heaps; one to use for fresh materials while the other is maturing. Composting piles should be located directly on the soil.Add yard trimmings as they are collected. By mixing the green and brown materials, and keeping the heap damp (but not soggy), it will help keep the composting process going. Since materials are continually added to the heap, the more finished compost will be located at the bottom. To harvest the ready compost, remove the holding unit from the compost heap, and place it next to the heap. Next, shovel materials from the top of the old heap into the bottom of the empty holding unit until rich compost is found.


Closed Air Composting

Closed air (anaerobic) composting is done in a closed bin. Anaerobic microorganisms, which produce end products that can smell like rotting eggs, also become involved in the decomposition process. In closed air bins, water is continuously recycled as condensation, which drops back to the mass from the interior of the lid. This process helps the contents of the bin stay damp, a good feature given the Coachella Valley's dry climate. Materials to use is the same ingredients as the hot compost pile; with closed-air composting. However, kitchen scraps can be added. Do not add meat, bones, oils, fatty foods or dairy products.

The Closed-Air Composting System
Position the compost bin in a sunny spot if possible, to utilize the "glass house effect," which in turn encourages the entry, but not the loss of heat. It is best to have two composting bins; while the first is maturing, the second can be filled.Bins should be placed on soil that will allow drainage and the entry of earthworms and other beneficial organisms. Some closed-air systems require the bin to be placed over a hole 6-12 inches deep. Chop or grind large kitchen scraps and yard trimmings into smaller pieces, to hasten the composting process.Add materials to the compost bin once or twice a week. Try to avoid more frequent opening of the bin, and keep the lid tightly secured. Vary the layers of material, or mix them together when adding to the bin.It is very important that the compost material does not dry out. Add water, if necessary, to keep the compost moist. If the compost becomes sloppy, add dry ingredients to the mixture. You do not need to turn or aerate the contents of the bin.οΎ  Continue adding materials to the bin until it is full. The materials will reduce significantly in volume as the composting process takes place. When the bin is completely full, cover the compost with a thin layer of soil and allow it to sit for 12-16 weeks. The compost on the bottom of the pile will mature first. Some bins have a bottom opening to harvest this finished compost, while others require the bin to be pulled up over the mature compost.

If you are not into any of these methods of composting than check out Naturemill which is a company that makes a composting machine. It's safe, easy and good for those that have little to no hard space.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

USE DRIP IRRIGATION

Drip irrigation is an irrigation method that reduces the use of water and fertilizer by allowing water to drip slowly to the roots of plants, through a network of valves, pipes, tubing and emitters.


Drip irrigation components are...
  • Pump or pressurized water source
  • Water Filter(s) - Filtration Systems: Sand Separator, Cyclone, Screen Filter, Media Filters
  • Fertigation Systems (Venturi injector) and Chemigation Equipment (optional)
  • Backwash Controller
  • Main Line (larger diameter Pipe and Pipe Fittings)
  • Hand-operated, electronic, or hydraulic Control Valves and Safety Valves
  • Smaller diameter polytube (often referred to as "laterals")
  • Poly fittings and Accessories (to make connections)
  • Emitting Devices at plants (ex. Emitter or Drippers, micro spray heads, inline drippers, trickle rings)

If properly designed, installed and managed, drip irrigation may help achieve water conservation by reducing evaporation and deep drainage when compared to other types of irrigation such as flood or overhead sprinklers since water can be more precisely applied to the plant roots. In addition, drip irrigation can eliminate many diseases that are spread through water contact with the foliage.

Advantages of drip irrigation...

  • Minimized fertilizer/nutrient loss due to localized application and reduced leaching.
  • High water distribution efficiency.
  • Leveling of the field not necessary.
  • Allows safe use of recycled water.
  • Moisture within the root zone can be maintained at field capacity.
  • Soil type plays less important role in frequency of irrigation.
  • Minimized soil erosion.
  • Highly uniform distribution of water i.e., controlled by output of each nozzle.
  • Lower labor cost.
  • Variation in supply can be regulated by regulating the valves and drippers.
  • Fertigation can easily be included with minimal waste of fertilizers.
  • Early maturity and a bountiful harvest (season after season, year after year)

Disadvantages of drip irrigation...

  • Expense - Initial cost can be more than overhead systems.
  • Waste - The sun can affect the tubes used for drip irrigation, shortening their usable life.
  • Longevity is variable.
  • Clogging. If the water is not properly filtered and the equipment not properly maintained, it can result in clogging.
  • Drip irrigation might be unsatisfactory if herbicides or top dressed fertilizers need sprinkler irrigation for activation.
  • Drip tape causes extra cleanup costs after harvest. You'll need to plan for drip tape winding, disposal, recycling or reuse.
  • Waste of water, time & harvest, if not installed properly. These systems requires careful study of all the relevant factors like land topography, soil, water, crop and agro-climatic conditions, and suitability of drip irrigation system and its components.

    "There are always disadvantages to anything however in this case the positives out way the negatives."

If you would like to know where to buy drip irrigation products then contact me and I will happily help you out.